Preserved Lemons

As the days get longer and spring strides optimisticly into summer there is one versatile fruit that reminds us of far sunnier climes. Southern Europe, North Africa and the Middle East enjoy a climate and geology where lemons are in abundance. Fresh lemons, particularly their zest and juices, lift a mundane meal to a more memorable one. Preserved lemons are something else altogether. It would be hard to imagine bulghar and couscous, tagines and Moroccan salads without those zingy complex notes. Their bursts of sunshine would not only be bottled for the leaner months but preservation brings out a particular unique characteristic. They are an easy and worthwhile addition to any larder.
March and April is a good time to pick up some new season Mediteranian lemons from the many Middle Eastern and Indian deli's around the country.

Ingredients

10 small to medium sized unwaxed lemons.
Salt.
Water.
Cut a cross section into the lemons about ¾ the way down so they open like a flower. Fill each lemon with about 2 teaspoons of salt. Close the lemons and pack them tightly into a sterilized jar. Leave for a few days so the salt can draw out some of the natural juices and sugars and they become softer. For the preservation to really start working its magic cover the lemons with a mixture of lemon juice and water. Leave for three to four weeks. They will last for about a year in their preserving juices.

ken doherty is a chef and journalist