Quince, Apple and Cardamom Jam

Enigmatic and curvacious, quinces enter the food fray every October and November. Get hold of the knobbly and weighty wonders to add still-life inspiration and fragrance to the kitchen or cook a batch to make membrillo (Spanish paste for cheese) or quince aioli. Poached, roasted or tucked into meaty stews and tagines are other typical ways of using up a glut, but a jam with the warming spice of cardamom is just about the best.

1kg quinces
250g apples
900g sugar
10 cardamom pods
lemon juice
water

Peel and core the quinces. Reserve these bits and pop the whole quinces in water with a little lemon juice to stop discolouration. Put the peel and core in a pan just covered with water. Bring to the boil and then simmer for about and hour. Meanwhile, strain the quinces and chop them into small pieces. Strain the peel and core pan and mix the syrup with the chopped quinces. Add the sugar, lightly crushed cardamom pods, roughly chopped apples and enough water so as the fruits are just revealing themselves. Cook till the fruit is soft and mushy. Pack into sterilized jars. Great with ice-cream, cream cheese or yogurt.
This recipe is adapted from the wonderful 'Persia in Peckham' cookbook.


Ken Doherty is a chef and journalist